In order to add the "Park" contacts, you'll need to disassemble the switch (it's held together with metal tabs, the contacts are in a bakelite plate). To allow the switch to fuction in "Park," you will need to modify the switch and add two contacts so that when the shifter is in "Park," the slide switch will touch the contacts, complete the circuit and let power flow to the starter circuit. when the shifter is in Reverse, the contacts line up and provide power to the backup lights. The neutral safety switch used on '55-'57 has a four-contact setup, with the center-most contacts for the neutral circuit and the ouboard contacts for the backup lights, i.e. Worth every penny, and a great way to save time and money on repairs, whether doing them yourself or farming it out.Here's what I found out (I have to confess this was found in the March-April and May-June 2003 issues of CTCI's "Early Bird" magazine). 75% of the questions on this forum can be answered by just looking in the FSM. Every classic Ford owner should have a copy of the FSM for their year and model. PS: You've probably noticed the references to the Ford Shop Manuals (FSM). Once properly adjusted, your reverse lights should work perfectly. Find the procedures in your Ford Shop Manual for your model and specific shifter type. If it does not show continuity, the shift linkage needs adjustment. Follow the simple procedure of aligning the arrow marks in the Ford Shop Manual (which also explains all these test steps).
If it does show a spot of continuity, your switch needs position adjustment. If it does not test-out, the switch is bad on that side. Somewhere in there, we hope to see the meter jump to continuity. Key off, slooowly move the shifter from P to R to N. Get a continuity meter and connect to the still disconnected switch terminals. If they do light in the last test, the problem is in the NSS. The process should take about 10 minutes plus any repairs. Repair whatever you find has no continuity. If they are not on, check your fuses and test the wires with a meter. They should be on if the wires and bulbs are good. Go turn the key to RUN (do not start) and go look at the reverse lights. To test the wires and bulbs, pull the connector with the BLK/RED wires off and jump the terminals with a paper clip or pliers or something. The wires for the reverse lights are both BLK/RED.
The wires for the starter are both RED/BLU. Use your fingernail to scratch enough paint off to see the wire color. Look at your two wire pairs at the switch. Or, how do I check for a broken wire somewhere along the path?Ĭan the NSS work for one circuit but not the other? How do I check the NSS to determine it works for the back up lights? Difficult to follow without tearing apart the interior. I assume they enter the interior and run under the carpet to the firewall. The wires from the bulbs in the trunk run down the left side between the rear quarter panel and inner fender well. The previous owner painted the engine compartment and all the wires are painted black! I have no clue which plug is for the starting circuit or the back up lights. I have two, two wire plugs coming from the NSS. The NSS prevents the car from starting when in reverse or drive so that part of the switch is working fine. The lights are tied into the neutral safety switch (NSS) mounted to the side of the C6 transmission for when the trans is placed in reverse. I have a 66 Galaxie 500 convertible and my back up lights do not work.